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How many days in Tbilisi? 4 days, with sulphur baths and a mountain day
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
Tbilisi is a city of carved wooden balconies, brick bath domes and Soviet-era blocks spread along the gorge of the Mtkvari river, with a ruined fortress above it all. It is cheap, friendly and full of food: dinners here are long and come with toasts. Give it four days: two for the old town, the baths and the modern city, one for the ancient capital Mtskheta, 20 km away, and one for the Georgian Military Road to Kazbegi and the Caucasus.
Short answer
Three days covers the old town, Narikala, the baths, Rustaveli Avenue and Mtskheta. The fourth day takes you into the high Caucasus to the Gergeti Trinity Church under Mount Kazbek.
The 4-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Old Tbilisi, Narikala and the sulphur baths
Morning. Start at the Sioni Cathedral and the small Anchiskhati Basilica, the oldest surviving church in the city, from the 6th century. Walk past the leaning clock tower of the Gabriadze puppet theatre, where a little angel rings the bell on the hour, and down to the Bridge of Peace, a glass and steel footbridge from 2010.
Afternoon. From Rike Park on the other bank, take the cable car up to Narikala Fortress (a few lari each way, payable by travel card), and walk the ridge to the aluminium statue of Mother of Georgia, holding a sword and a cup of wine. Walk down through the botanical garden or the steps to Abanotubani, the bath district.
Evening. Book a private room at one of the sulphur baths, such as the blue-tiled Chreli Abano (Orbeliani Baths); a room for an hour costs roughly 80-200 lari depending on size, and a scrub (kisi) extra. Then have dinner nearby on Shardeni Street or in the lanes of Sololaki.
The warm water comes from natural springs and smells of sulphur. Book the baths a day ahead for the evening and bring a towel if your room does not include one.
Day 2: Rustaveli Avenue, the museums and Fabrika
Morning. Walk Rustaveli Avenue, the main avenue of the city, from Freedom Square past the Parliament, the opera house and the Kashveti church. Visit the Georgian National Museum (about 15-20 lari), whose treasury holds gold jewellery from ancient Colchis, the land of the Golden Fleece.
Afternoon. Go to the Dry Bridge market, a flea market of Soviet medals, cameras, carpets and paintings, busiest at weekends. Then walk across the river to Fabrika, a former Soviet sewing factory turned into a hostel with a courtyard of cafes, bars and street art.
Evening. Take the funicular up to Mtatsminda Park, at the top of the holy mountain above the city (a few lari), for the view of the lights, or go to Sameba, the huge Holy Trinity Cathedral finished in 2004, lit up at night.
Buy a Metromoney card at any metro station or use a contactless bank card: a metro or bus ride costs about 1 lari, and transfers within 90 minutes are cheaper.
Day 3: Mtskheta and the Jvari Monastery
Morning. Take a marshrutka (minibus) from Didube station, about 30 minutes and a few lari, to Mtskheta, the ancient capital where the rivers Aragvi and Mtkvari meet. Visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, rebuilt in the 11th century, where the robe of Christ is said to be buried, and the nearby Samtavro convent.
Afternoon. Take a taxi up to the Jvari Monastery (about 20-30 lari return with waiting), built in the 6th century on a hilltop above the confluence. The view over Mtskheta is the classic photo. Return to Tbilisi by marshrutka or taxi.
Evening. Have a Georgian feast, or supra: order khinkali, khachapuri and a jug of house wine in a traditional restaurant. A full meal with wine costs about 40-70 lari per person.
Women should cover their hair and shoulders and wear a skirt in Georgian churches; scarves and wraps are often lent at the door. Men should not wear shorts.
Day 4: Kazbegi and the Georgian Military Road
Morning. Leave early for Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), about 150 km and 3 hours north on the Georgian Military Road. Stop at the fortress of Ananuri on the Zhinvali reservoir and pass the ski resort of Gudauri and the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument viewpoint above the Devil's Valley.
Afternoon. From Stepantsminda, walk about 1.5 hours or take a 4x4 (about 50-70 lari per car) up to the Gergeti Trinity Church, a 14th-century church at about 2,170 metres, with Mount Kazbek (5,054 metres) behind it on a clear day.
Evening. Return to Tbilisi by about 21:00-22:00, or stay overnight in Stepantsminda and come back the next day. Shared minibuses leave Didube for Kazbegi in the morning for about 15-25 lari.
The road crosses the Jvari Pass at about 2,400 metres and can close in snow from November to April. Check conditions before you go, and take warm clothes even in summer.
Only have 3 days?
With 3 days, keep Days 1 to 3, putting the Dry Bridge market on the morning of Day 3 if it is a weekend. You lose the mountains, but you see the core of Tbilisi and Mtskheta.
Got extra days?
A 5th day can go east to Kakheti, Georgia's wine region, for the hilltop town of Sighnaghi and wine tastings in qvevri cellars (about 2 hours), or south to the cave monastery of David Gareja near the Azerbaijani border.
Where to stay in Tbilisi
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Chugureti / Marjanishvili | Hostels and guesthouses near Fabrika and the metro, 15 minutes from the old town. | ₾70-140 |
| Mid-range | Old Tbilisi / Abanotubani | Boutique hotels in old houses, walk to the baths and Narikala. | ₾180-350 |
| Mid-range | Sololaki | Quiet streets of art nouveau houses, close to Freedom Square and Rustaveli. | ₾160-300 |
| Comfort | Rustaveli Avenue / Vake | International and design hotels, upmarket cafes and restaurants. | ₾400-900 |
Getting around
The metro has two lines; a ride costs about 1 lari with a Metromoney card or a contactless card, as do the city buses. Bolt taxis are cheap: most trips in the centre cost 6-15 lari. From the airport, about 17 km away, bus 337 runs to the centre for a lari or two, and a Bolt taxi costs about 25-40 lari. The old town is walkable but hilly. For day trips, minibuses leave from Didube station, or hire a driver for the day.
What to eat in Tbilisi
Georgian food is a reason to visit. Eat khinkali (soup dumplings, eaten by hand: hold the top knot, bite, drink the broth), khachapuri adjaruli (a cheese bread boat with egg and butter) and badrijani nigvzit (aubergine rolls with walnut paste). Try pkhali (vegetable and walnut pastes), mtsvadi (grilled pork skewers), chakapuli (lamb with tarragon) and churchkhela, walnuts dipped in grape juice and dried. Georgia has made wine in clay qvevri for some 8,000 years; ask for amber wines or Saperavi. A meal with wine costs 30-70 lari per person.
Best time to visit
May-June and September-October, with 20-28°C; autumn is the grape harvest (rtveli). July and August are hot, often 33-36°C, but the mountains are at their best for Kazbegi. Winter is cold, around 0-8°C, with the Military Road sometimes closed by snow, but the city is quiet and the baths are at their best.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | ₾45 | ₾120 | ₾300 |
| Food & drink | ₾40 | ₾80 | ₾160 |
| Sights & tickets | ₾15 | ₾50 | ₾100 |
| Local transport | ₾5 | ₾25 | ₾70 |
| Total per person, per day | about ₾105 | about ₾275 | about ₾630 |
Approximate 2026 prices in Georgian lari (GEL); 1 euro is roughly 3 lari, and the mid-range and comfort columns include a sulphur bath and day-trip drivers. Georgia has no general tourist tax.
Before you go
Common questions
Is Tbilisi safe?
Generally yes, and violent crime against visitors is rare. Watch for pickpockets on the metro and in crowded old town streets, use Bolt rather than unmarked taxis, and avoid political demonstrations, which have been frequent around Rustaveli Avenue in recent years. Check your government's travel advice, especially about the regions near the borders with Russia-occupied areas.
Do I need a visa for Georgia?
Citizens of the EU, the UK, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries can visit Georgia without a visa for up to one year. Check the official rules for your passport before travelling. Some travellers are asked to show health insurance at the border, so carry proof of travel insurance.
How do I visit Kazbegi from Tbilisi?
Shared minibuses leave Didube station in the morning (about 3 hours, 15-25 lari), returning in the afternoon. A private driver for the day costs roughly 200-300 lari per car and lets you stop at Ananuri and the viewpoints. Group tours cost less per person. The road can close in snow in winter, so check conditions.
Can I pay by card?
Mostly yes. Cards and contactless payments work in restaurants, shops, the metro and buses. Carry cash in lari for marshrutkas, markets such as the Dry Bridge, small bakeries and village guesthouses. ATMs are everywhere; avoid exchange booths with poor rates near the airport.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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