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How many days in Kathmandu? 4 days across three royal cities and two great stupas
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
The Kathmandu Valley holds seven UNESCO World Heritage monuments within about 20 km: three royal squares, two great Buddhist stupas and two Hindu temple complexes. Most trekkers rush through on the way to the Himalaya, but the valley deserves four days: one for old Kathmandu, one for the stupas and Pashupatinath, one for Patan, and one for Bhaktapur with a sunrise view of the mountains from Nagarkot. Traffic and dust are serious, so plan each day around one area and start early.
Short answer
Three days covers Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath and Patan. The fourth day adds Bhaktapur, the best preserved of the three royal cities, and a night or dawn in Nagarkot.
The 4-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Old Kathmandu: Durbar Square and the bazaar
Morning. Walk from Thamel through the old trading streets of Asan Tole and Indra Chowk, where spice, cloth and copper sellers open shop around shrines in the middle of the street. Arrive at Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur), the old royal square (about NPR 1,000 for foreigners), with its pagoda temples and the Hanuman Dhoka palace, partly rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake.
Afternoon. Visit the Kumari Ghar, the house of the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as a living goddess, who sometimes appears at a window of the courtyard (photographs of her are not allowed). Then take a taxi 15 minutes west to Swayambhunath (about NPR 200), the hilltop stupa known as the Monkey Temple, and climb the 365 steps of the eastern stairway.
Evening. Watch the sunset over the valley from Swayambhunath, then have dinner in Thamel or at the Garden of Dreams, a restored early 20th-century garden near Thamel. A plate of momo (dumplings) costs NPR 200-400 in local places.
Keep your Durbar Square ticket: it is valid for more than one day if you register it with your passport at the office.
Day 2: Pashupatinath and Boudhanath
Morning. Go to Pashupatinath (about NPR 1,000), Nepal's holiest Hindu temple on the banks of the Bagmati river. Only Hindus may enter the main temple, but visitors can watch from the terraces across the river, where open-air cremations take place on the ghats; behave respectfully and do not photograph mourners closely. Holy men, sadhus, sit around the courtyards.
Afternoon. Walk or take a taxi about 2.5 km to Boudhanath (about NPR 400), one of the largest stupas in the world, the centre of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. Walk clockwise around the dome with pilgrims turning prayer wheels, and visit one of the monasteries (gompas) in the surrounding lanes.
Evening. Stay for the evening kora, when hundreds of pilgrims circle the stupa at sunset, and eat Tibetan food at a rooftop cafe facing the dome: thukpa noodle soup or tingmo bread, around NPR 400-700.
Boudhanath is especially atmospheric on full-moon nights and during Losar, the Tibetan New Year, usually in February or March.
Day 3: Patan: Durbar Square and the Newar courtyards
Morning. Cross the Bagmati to Patan (Lalitpur), about 20 minutes by taxi, the old city of Newar craftsmen. Its Durbar Square (about NPR 1,000) has the finest stone and wooden temples in the valley, including the stone Krishna Mandir. The ticket includes the Patan Museum, the best museum in Nepal for Hindu and Buddhist art, set in a former royal palace; allow 1.5-2 hours.
Afternoon. Walk to the Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal), a Buddhist monastery courtyard with gilded roofs, and through the lanes of metal workshops where bronze statues are still cast by hand. Have lunch in a Newari restaurant: try bara (lentil pancakes) and chatamari (rice crepe).
Evening. Stay for sunset in Patan Durbar Square, when locals gather on the temple steps, then have dinner in Jhamsikhel (Jhamel), a district of cafes and restaurants nearby, around NPR 1,000-2,000 per person.
Use the Pathao or InDrive apps, or agree a price before getting into a taxi; metered fares are rare. Kathmandu to Patan should cost about NPR 400-600.
Day 4: Bhaktapur and the Nagarkot sunrise
Morning. Leave Kathmandu at about 4:30 for Nagarkot, on the valley rim at about 2,100 metres, roughly 1-1.5 hours by car, to watch the sun rise over the Himalaya, which on clear mornings from October to April stretch from Annapurna to Everest. Then drive down about 40 minutes to Bhaktapur.
Afternoon. Bhaktapur (about NPR 1,800 for foreigners) is the best preserved of the three royal cities, with fewer cars. See Durbar Square and its Golden Gate, Taumadhi Square with the five-storey Nyatapola temple, and Pottery Square, where clay pots dry in the sun. Eat juju dhau, the creamy king curd sold in clay bowls.
Evening. Stay for dusk in Taumadhi Square, then return to Kathmandu, about 40-60 minutes by taxi (around NPR 1,500-2,000), or sleep in a guesthouse in Bhaktapur for a quiet morning.
On the way back, stop at Changu Narayan, a hilltop temple from the 4th century, the oldest in the valley, about 30 minutes from Bhaktapur (about NPR 300).
Only have 3 days?
With 3 days, do Days 1 and 2 as written and spend Day 3 in Bhaktapur, going to Patan in the late afternoon. You lose the sunrise at Nagarkot and the Patan Museum.
Got extra days?
Extra days go to the mountains: a 1-hour Everest mountain flight at dawn (around US$200-250), a short trek such as Chisapani, or a bus or 25-minute flight to Pokhara for lakeside views of the Annapurnas. For Chitwan National Park, allow two or three days.
Where to stay in Kathmandu
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Thamel | The traveller district: cheap guesthouses, trekking shops and restaurants. | NPR 1,500-4,000 |
| Mid-range | Thamel edges / Lazimpat | Quieter hotels with gardens, 10-15 minutes' walk from Thamel. | NPR 5,000-10,000 |
| Mid-range | Patan / Boudhanath | Heritage guesthouses in Newar houses, or rooms facing the stupa. | NPR 4,000-9,000 |
| Comfort | Heritage hotels near Kathmandu and Patan | Restored palaces and courtyards with Newari architecture, spa and gardens. | NPR 15,000-35,000 |
Getting around
Tribhuvan International Airport is about 6 km from Thamel; a prepaid taxi costs about NPR 800-1,200 and takes 20-45 minutes depending on traffic. In the city, use taxis with an agreed price or the Pathao and InDrive apps, which are cheaper. Local buses and microbuses are crowded and hard to follow. Walking in old Kathmandu and Patan is the best way, but streets are narrow and shared with motorbikes. Air pollution can be high in winter and spring; a mask helps.
What to eat in Kathmandu
Start with momo, Nepal's steamed or fried dumplings filled with buffalo, chicken or vegetables, and dal bhat, rice with lentil soup, vegetable curry and pickles, often refilled for free. The valley's own cuisine is Newari: try bara and chatamari, choila (spiced grilled buffalo), yomari (sweet rice dumplings) and juju dhau yogurt in Bhaktapur. Tibetan places around Boudhanath serve thukpa and butter tea. Local meals cost NPR 300-800; a tourist restaurant in Thamel NPR 1,000-2,500. Drink bottled or filtered water only.
Best time to visit
October-November and March-April are best, with clear skies, mountain views and 20-25°C by day. The monsoon, from about June to September, brings daily rain, clouds over the mountains and muddy roads. December to February is dry and sunny but cold at night (near 0-2°C), often with smog. The big festivals, Dashain and Tihar, fall in October-November; offices close and buses fill.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | NPR 1,200 | NPR 4,000 | NPR 12,000 |
| Food & drink | NPR 1,500 | NPR 3,500 | NPR 7,000 |
| Sights & tickets | NPR 1,000 | NPR 1,500 | NPR 2,500 |
| Local transport | NPR 400 | NPR 1,200 | NPR 3,000 |
| Total per person, per day | about NPR 4,100 | about NPR 10,200 | about NPR 24,500 |
Approximate 2026 prices in Nepalese rupees (NPR); about NPR 150 to 1 euro, and entry fees for foreigners are much higher than for Nepalis. Hotels add 13% VAT and a 10% service charge, often on top of the listed price.
Before you go
Common questions
Do I need a visa for Nepal?
Most nationalities can get a tourist visa on arrival at Tribhuvan airport, paid in cash, usually US dollars, or by card at the counter. Fees are roughly US$30 for 15 days, US$50 for 30 days and US$125 for 90 days. You can fill in the form online before you fly to save time. Check current rules for your passport.
Was Kathmandu damaged by the 2015 earthquake?
Yes, badly. Several temples in Kathmandu Durbar Square and Bhaktapur collapsed and others were damaged. Most have since been rebuilt or restored, and reconstruction continues on some buildings. The squares are open, and part of the entrance fee goes to restoration. Patan and Boudhanath are in very good condition again.
Can I see Everest from Kathmandu?
Not from the city itself. On clear mornings, mainly from October to April, the Himalaya can be seen from Nagarkot on the valley rim, and Everest appears as a small peak on the horizon. For a close view, take a 1-hour mountain flight at dawn from Tribhuvan airport, which flies along the range past Everest.
Is Kathmandu safe for travellers?
Generally yes, with low violent crime. The main risks are traffic, air pollution and stomach problems from water. Watch for pickpockets in crowded markets and at festivals, and be careful with your bag on motorbike-filled streets. Strikes (bandhs) and protests occasionally close roads; follow local news and your embassy's advice.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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