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How many days in Bariloche? 5 days of lakes, chairlifts, glaciers and chocolate
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
San Carlos de Bariloche sits on the south shore of Nahuel Huapi, a huge glacial lake inside Argentina's oldest national park, created in 1934. The town itself is a place of stone-and-timber buildings and chocolate shops; the reason to come is what surrounds it: forested peninsulas, chairlifts to viewpoints, mountain huts and a glacier at the foot of Cerro Tronador. Give it five days: one in town, one on the Circuito Chico, one on the lake, one at Tronador and one for a hike or the Seven Lakes Route.
Short answer
Four days covers the town, Cerro Campanario and the Circuito Chico, Isla Victoria and Tronador. The fifth adds Refugio Frey, a longer hike, or the drive to Villa La Angostura.
The 5-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Centro Civico, Calle Mitre and Cerro Otto
Morning. Start at the Centro Civico, the square of grey stone and dark timber buildings designed in the 1930s by architect Ezequiel Bustillo, facing the lake. Walk along Calle Mitre, the main street, where chocolate shops such as Rapa Nui and Mamuschka sell boxes and hot chocolate. The Cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Nahuel Huapi, a few blocks east, overlooks the shore.
Afternoon. Take the free shuttle from the centre to the Cerro Otto cable car, about 5 km west, which climbs to about 1,400 metres in roughly 12 minutes. At the top, a revolving cafe turns 360 degrees in about 20 minutes, with views of the lake and the town (cable car roughly US$25-35).
Evening. Have dinner at a parrilla (grill house) in town. Order Patagonian lamb or a steak with a bottle of Malbec; expect around US$25-45 per person.
Argentina's prices change quickly with inflation and exchange rates. Many visitors pay by card at the favourable rate for foreign cards; check the current situation with your bank and your hotel before you exchange cash.
Day 2: Cerro Campanario and the Circuito Chico
Morning. Take the city bus number 20 along the lakeshore road, Avenida Bustillo, to km 17.5, the base of Cerro Campanario. The chairlift takes about 7 minutes to a summit viewpoint with a panorama over lakes Nahuel Huapi and Perito Moreno, the Llao Llao peninsula and the Andes (around US$15-20 return), or you can walk up in about 30 minutes.
Afternoon. Continue around the Circuito Chico, a loop of about 60 km by car or rented bike. Stop at the Llao Llao Hotel, built in the 1930s on a hill between two lakes, at the Punto Panoramico viewpoint and at Bahia Lopez. Walk the short trails in Llao Llao Municipal Park, such as the path to Villa Tacul beach.
Evening. Stop at a brewery on the circuit for a craft beer, then return to town. Bariloche has many breweries, and the area is often described as one of the craft-beer centres of Argentina.
Renting a bike for the Circuito Chico is popular: take the bus to km 18 and rent there, which avoids the busiest section of road. The loop has a few steep hills, so allow a full day.
Day 3: Isla Victoria and the Arrayanes forest
Morning. Take a boat from Puerto Panuelo, at the Llao Llao peninsula, across the lake to Isla Victoria, the largest island in Nahuel Huapi, with forest trails and a beach (around US$40-60 per person, plus a national park fee; departures usually around 10:00).
Afternoon. The boat continues to the tip of the Quetrihue peninsula, in Los Arrayanes National Park, where a short boardwalk passes through a forest of arrayan trees, a myrtle with cinnamon-coloured bark and cool trunks. The trip returns to Puerto Panuelo by about 16:00-17:00.
Evening. Visit Colonia Suiza, a village founded by Swiss settlers near the Circuito Chico, whose restaurants serve curanto, a dish of meat and vegetables cooked over hot stones in the ground, on certain days.
The arrayan forest is also reached on foot or by bike from Villa La Angostura: a trail of about 12 km each way crosses the Quetrihue peninsula. Combine it with the Seven Lakes Route if you have a car.
Day 4: Cerro Tronador and the black glacier
Morning. Leave early for Pampa Linda, about 85 km from Bariloche, the last part on a gravel road through the forest along Lago Mascardi. The road beyond Los Rapidos follows a timed one-way system, with fixed hours for going up and coming down; check the current times at the national park office.
Afternoon. At the end of the road, walk to the Ventisquero Negro, the black glacier, a glacier covered in dark rock and debris sliding into a small lake full of icebergs, beneath the slopes of Cerro Tronador, a 3,500-metre volcano on the border with Chile. Short trails lead to the Garganta del Diablo waterfall, fed by the ice.
Evening. Return to Bariloche by the evening, stopping at a viewpoint over Lago Gutierrez. Dinner of trout from the local lakes, often grilled or smoked, costs around US$20-35.
A tour to Tronador takes about 10-12 hours (roughly US$70-100 plus the park fee). If you drive, check the one-way schedule carefully: a missed window can mean a long wait.
Day 5: Refugio Frey hike, or the Seven Lakes Route
Morning. Hikers should take the bus to Villa Catedral, the base of the Cerro Catedral ski area, and walk the trail to Refugio Frey, a mountain hut beside a small lake surrounded by granite spires, about 3-4 hours each way. The refugio sells hot drinks and meals, and some people sleep there.
Afternoon. Non-hikers can drive the Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Route 40) north to Villa La Angostura and San Martin de los Andes, about 190 km one way, past lakes such as Correntoso, Espejo and Falkner, with viewpoints along the road. Allow a full day, or spend a night in San Martin.
Evening. Return to Bariloche for a last dinner, or stop in Villa La Angostura, a quieter village on the lake, before heading back.
Weather in the Andes changes fast. Even in summer, carry warm layers, waterproofs and water on the trail to Refugio Frey, and tell your hotel your route and expected return time.
Only have 4 days?
With 4 days, drop the fifth day and choose between Refugio Frey and the Seven Lakes Route only if you can add an extra morning. With 3 days, do the town, the Circuito Chico and Isla Victoria, and skip Tronador.
Got extra days?
With more time, take the Cruce Andino, a full day by boat and bus across the lakes and the Andes to Puerto Varas in Chile, or ski at Cerro Catedral in winter. El Bolson, about 2 hours south, is known for its craft fair, hops and hiking trails.
Where to stay in Bariloche
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Hostels in the town centre | Dorms and simple rooms close to the bus stops, Calle Mitre and the lake. | US$25-70 |
| Mid-range | Town centre and Avenida Bustillo first km | Hotels with lake views and walking distance to the restaurants. | US$80-160 |
| Mid-range | Cabins along Avenida Bustillo (km 3-20) | Wooden cabanas in the forest by the lake, close to the Circuito Chico. | US$90-200 |
| Comfort | Llao Llao and lakeside resorts | Historic resort and boutique hotels with spas, golf and views over two lakes. | US$300-800 |
Getting around
Bariloche's airport, about 15 km east, has flights from Buenos Aires in about 2h20; a taxi or remis to the centre costs roughly US$15-25. Long-distance buses from Buenos Aires take about 20-22 hours. In town, city buses run along Avenida Bustillo to the Circuito Chico and to Cerro Catedral; you need a rechargeable SUBE card, sold at kiosks. A rental car (around US$50-90 a day) makes Tronador and the Seven Lakes Route much easier, but check the gravel-road rules. Tours to all the main sights leave from hotels in the centre.
What to eat in Bariloche
Bariloche's food is Patagonian with a Swiss and German accent. Order cordero patagonico, lamb slow-roasted on an iron cross over an open fire, trout from the local lakes, and smoked meats and cheeses from local smokehouses. Fondue appears on many menus. Chocolate is the town's trademark, sold in bars, blocks and in the form of en rama, crumbly chocolate sticks. Breweries serve local craft beer for around US$4-7 a pint. A dinner with wine in a parrilla costs around US$25-45 per person; a simple lunch around US$12-20. Dinner starts late, often after 21:00.
Best time to visit
December to March is summer, with highs of 20-25°C, long days and all trails and roads open; it is the busiest season, especially in January. July to September is the ski season at Cerro Catedral, with snow in town on some days and school holiday crowds in July. Autumn (April-May) brings red and gold forests and fewer people, though some services close. Spring (October-November) is windy and changeable, but quiet.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | US$25 | US$60 | US$180 |
| Food & drink | US$25 | US$45 | US$90 |
| Sights & tickets | US$15 | US$40 | US$80 |
| Local transport | US$5 | US$25 | US$50 |
| Total per person, per day | about US$70 | about US$170 | about US$400 |
Approximate 2026 prices, shown in US dollars because Argentine peso prices change quickly with inflation; you pay locally in pesos (ARS$) or by card, and national park areas such as Isla Victoria and Tronador charge an entry fee.
Before you go
Common questions
Is Bariloche worth visiting in summer or in winter?
Both, for different reasons. Summer, from December to March, is best for hiking, lake boat trips, the Circuito Chico by bike and the drive to Tronador. Winter, from July to September, brings skiing at Cerro Catedral and snowy scenery, but some trails and high roads close. For general sightseeing, late spring and early autumn are calmer and still pleasant.
Do I need a car in Bariloche?
Not for the town, Cerro Campanario, Cerro Otto, the Circuito Chico or Cerro Catedral, which city buses and tours cover well. A car is very useful for Cerro Tronador and the Seven Lakes Route, where buses are infrequent. The Tronador road has a timed one-way section, and some routes include gravel, so drive carefully.
How do I pay in Argentina?
Argentina's economy changes fast, and so do the rules for foreign visitors. In recent years, foreign credit cards have often received a favourable exchange rate, making card payment the best option, while cash US dollars can also be exchanged at a good rate in some places. Check the current situation before your trip and bring a card without foreign transaction fees.
Can I combine Bariloche with Chile?
Yes. The Cruce Andino crosses the Andes by boat and bus through the lakes to Puerto Varas in Chile in about a day, and there are direct buses over the Cardenal Samore pass to Osorno and Puerto Montt in about 6-8 hours, depending on border queues. Take your passport and check the customs rules on food.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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