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How many days in Astypalaia? 4 days for Chora, the beaches and the boat to the islets
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
Astypalaia sits on the western edge of the Dodecanese, closer in spirit to the Cyclades, and its two halves are joined by a narrow neck of land, which gives it the butterfly shape on the map. It is far from Piraeus, which keeps it quiet. Give it four days: one for Chora and its castle, two for the beaches at the ends of the dirt roads, and one on a boat to the islets. You will need a car or scooter; the bus network is small.
Short answer
Three days covers Chora, Livadi and one long beach day plus the boat trip. Four lets you reach both the western and eastern ends of the island without rushing the roads.
The 4-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Chora, the castle and the windmills
Morning. Climb from the harbour of Pera Gialos up the stepped lanes to Chora, about 15 minutes on foot. At the top, the Kastro was built by the Venetian Querini family, who ruled the island in the late Middle Ages; walk through its gate to the white churches inside the walls, including Evangelistria. Go before 10:00 in summer, as there is no shade on the climb.
Afternoon. Visit Panagia Portaitissa, the large white church just below the castle, then the small Archaeological Museum in Pera Gialos (a few euros; check current opening days). Swim at the town beach of Pera Gialos, a few minutes from the cafés.
Evening. Watch the sunset from the row of windmills on the ridge at the entrance to Chora, then eat on the lanes of Chora or by the water in Pera Gialos; taverna mains cost about €12-20.
Chora's lanes are steep and stepped. Leave the car at the parking by the windmills and walk; there is no way through by car anyway.
Day 2: Livadi and the western beaches
Morning. Drive 5 minutes (or walk about 25 minutes) down to Livadi, a valley of gardens and orchards ending in a long sheltered beach with sunbeds and tamarisk shade. It is the easiest family beach on the island.
Afternoon. Take the dirt road west towards Kaminakia, roughly 40 minutes from Chora, much of it unpaved, for a pebble cove with very clear water and a seasonal taverna. On the way, Vatses is a sandy cove with a cave at one end. Drive slowly; most rental contracts do not cover tyres and underbody damage on dirt roads.
Evening. Return to Chora for dinner, or stay in Livadi for a quieter fish taverna by the beach.
Fill the tank before heading west. There are only a couple of petrol stations on the island, near Chora and Livadi, and none on the dirt roads.
Day 3: Boat day to Kounoupa and Koutsomytis
Morning. Most summer boat trips leave Pera Gialos at about 10:00-11:00 for the small islets off the southern coast. Koutsomytis and Kounoupa are the usual stops, with shallow turquoise water over sand; prices are roughly €40-60 per person, often with lunch on board.
Afternoon. Some boats continue to sea caves and to Agia Kyriaki or other beaches that are hard to reach by road. Swimming stops last 1-2 hours each. Bring a hat and reef-safe sunscreen; there is no shade on the islets.
Evening. Back by about 17:00-18:00. Rest, then walk up to Chora for a drink on one of the terraces looking at the castle lit up at night.
Boat trips depend on the wind. When the summer meltemi blows hard from the north, trips are cancelled or moved, so book for your first good day, not your last.
Day 4: Maltezana, Steno and the east
Morning. Drive about 15 minutes east across the narrow isthmus to Maltezana (also called Analipsi), a fishing village by a bay. Just outside the village are the remains of Roman-era baths with floor mosaics, open-air and free to see from the path.
Afternoon. Swim at Steno, the beach at the narrowest point of the island, about 10 minutes from Maltezana, or at Agios Konstantinos, a cove with a small church above it. Further east, the road ends at Vathy, a deep inlet with a few houses, roughly 40 minutes from Chora.
Evening. Eat fish or lobster pasta at a taverna in Maltezana, by the small harbour, before driving back to Chora (about 20 minutes).
Astypalaia has an on-demand electric minibus service and a programme to switch the island to electric vehicles; ask your accommodation how to book a ride if you are not hiring a car.
Only have 3 days?
With 3 days, keep Chora on Day 1, combine Livadi and Maltezana on Day 2, and take the boat on Day 3. You lose Kaminakia and the far east of the island.
Got extra days?
A 5th day could go to the far western monastery beach of Agios Ioannis, down a long dirt road, or simply to slow beach days. In summer some ferries link Astypalaia with Amorgos, Kalymnos and Kos, so you can continue island-hopping; check the timetables, which change every season.
Where to stay in Astypalaia
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Livadi rooms to let | Cheaper studios by the beach, 5 minutes from Chora by car. | €50-90 |
| Mid-range | Chora | Castle views, sunset from your terrace and walk to dinner. | €90-170 |
| Mid-range | Pera Gialos | At the harbour, close to the ferry and the boat trips. | €80-160 |
| Comfort | Boutique suites above Chora or Maltezana | Pools and quiet, in restored houses or small resorts. | €180-350 |
Getting around
Hire a car (about €40-70 a day in summer) or a scooter (about €20-35); book ahead for July and August, when the island's small fleet runs out. Paved roads link Chora, Livadi, Pera Gialos and Maltezana; most of the best beaches are at the end of dirt roads. The island's small bus service and on-demand electric minibus cover the main villages. Ferries from Piraeus take roughly 8-10 hours (Blue Star and others, a few times a week), and there are flights from Athens of about 1 hour to the airport near Maltezana. Taxis are few: book them by phone.
What to eat in Astypalaia
Astypalaia is known for its lobster pasta (astakomakaronada), about €25-40 a portion depending on weight, and for fresh fish sold by the kilo. Try chlori, a soft local cheese, island thyme honey and sweet pastries flavoured with saffron, which grows wild here. Tavernas serve fava, grilled octopus and goat or lamb dishes; a full meal with house wine costs about €18-30 per person. Bakeries in Chora sell cheese pies and koulouria for breakfast. Dinner is late, from 21:00, and many tavernas close between October and May.
Best time to visit
June and September are best, with warm sea (around 22-25°C), highs of 26-30°C and fewer visitors. July and August are busiest, especially around the 15 August holiday, and the meltemi wind can blow for days. From November to April many hotels and tavernas close and ferries are less frequent.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | €35 | €65 | €140 |
| Food & drink | €25 | €45 | €80 |
| Sights & tickets | €5 | €20 | €40 |
| Local transport | €15 | €30 | €45 |
| Total per person, per day | about €80 | about €160 | about €305 |
Approximate 2026 high-season prices; the transport row is a shared hire car or scooter, and the sights row averages in one boat trip. Greece adds a per-room, per-night climate resilience fee, higher from April to October.
Before you go
Common questions
Do I need a car in Astypalaia?
Yes, if you want more than Chora, Pera Gialos and Livadi. The best beaches, such as Kaminakia and Vatses, are at the end of dirt roads with no public transport. A small car is enough if you drive slowly; a scooter works for couples who travel light. Check what your rental insurance covers on unpaved roads before you set off.
How do I get to Astypalaia?
By ferry from Piraeus, a long trip of roughly 8-10 hours that usually runs a few times a week, or by plane from Athens in about an hour. In summer some boats also connect with Amorgos, Naxos, Kalymnos and Kos. Timetables change every season, so check before you plan your dates, and book early for August.
Is Astypalaia good for families?
Yes, for families who like quiet. Livadi and Pera Gialos have shallow, sheltered beaches with tavernas a few steps away, and distances are short. There is little organised entertainment. The dirt-road beaches have no lifeguards and little shade, so bring an umbrella and water.
Is Astypalaia expensive?
Mid-priced for a Greek island. Rooms are cheaper than on Mykonos or Santorini but rise sharply in August, and lobster pasta and fresh fish are priced by weight, so ask before ordering. Tavernas serving grilled meat, salads and meze stay reasonable, at about €18-30 per person with wine.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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