How many days in Ithaca? 4 days, between Vathy, the north villages and Homer's paths
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
Ithaca is small, about 23 km from end to end, and almost all of it is steep green hillside dropping into clear water. There are no big resorts, no airport and very little nightlife. Give it four days: two around Vathy, the capital at the end of a deep natural harbour, and two in the north, where Stavros, Frikes and Kioni sit above small coves. Rent a scooter or small car; the bus service is minimal.
Short answer
Three days covers Vathy, one beach day and a loop of the north villages. Four days adds the walk to the Arethusa spring and a slow morning in the hill village of Anogi, which most day-trippers from Kefalonia never reach.
The 4-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Vathy and its bay
Morning. Walk the horseshoe waterfront of Vathy, past the neoclassical houses rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake. The small islet of Lazaretto in the middle of the bay, with its white chapel, was once a quarantine station and prison. Visit the Archaeological Museum and the folk and nautical museum behind the quay, both small, a few euros or free.
Afternoon. Swim at Loutsa or Dexa beach, a 15-20 minute walk north of town. Dexa is the bay where, by local tradition, the Phaeacians left the sleeping Odysseus. Above it, about 2.5 km from Vathy, is the Cave of the Nymphs (Marmarospilia); its opening to visitors varies, so ask in town before going.
Evening. Eat on the Vathy quay, where tavernas set tables almost on the water. Order local fish by weight and finish with rovani, Ithaca's syrupy rice-and-honey sweet, from a pastry shop on the square. Dinner is €15-25 per person.
Most ferries arrive at Pisaetos, a quay on the west coast about 8 km and 15 minutes from Vathy, with no village. Arrange a taxi or rental car pickup in advance, especially for late boats.
Day 2: Gidaki, Filiatro and Sarakiniko
Morning. Take a water taxi from the Vathy quay (around €10-15 return, every hour or so in summer) to Gidaki, a long pebble beach with very clear water and no road access. You can also walk there over the hill from the Skinos road in about 30-40 minutes, which is steep in the heat.
Afternoon. Drive 3 km east to Filiatro, a small bay with a beach bar and pines, then cross the hill to Sarakiniko, a quieter cove facing the mainland. Both have shallow, sheltered water and suit children.
Evening. Drive up to Perachori, the village 3 km above Vathy, for sunset over the bay. In August the village holds a wine festival; on other nights there are tavernas with views. Nearby are the ruins of Paleochora, the old medieval capital, built high up away from pirates.
Gidaki has no shade and nothing to buy. Bring water, food and an umbrella, and check the time of the last water taxi back.
Day 3: The north: Kathara, Anogi, Stavros, Frikes and Kioni
Morning. Drive north on the high road to the Kathara monastery (Moni Katharon) at about 550 metres, with views over Vathy and across to Kefalonia. Continue 5 km to Anogi, the old hill village, where the old village church has Byzantine-style frescoes; ask in the café for the key. Nearby stand the tall natural rock pillars known as Araklis.
Afternoon. Descend to Stavros, the largest northern village. Its small museum holds finds from the Pilikata hill and the Loizos cave, which some archaeologists link to Odysseus' palace. Drive 5 minutes up the road towards Exogi to the site called the School of Homer, then drive down to Polis bay for a swim.
Evening. Have dinner at Frikes, a tiny harbour with a few tavernas and windmill ruins, or drive 5 km round the coast to Kioni, the prettiest village on the island, where yachts moor below houses climbing the slope.
The road from Vathy to Kioni is about 22 km and 40 minutes, narrow and winding. Fill up in Vathy or Stavros; petrol stations are few.
Day 4: Walk to the Arethusa spring
Morning. Start early from Vathy and walk south to the Arethusa spring below the cliff of Korakas Petra (the Raven's Rock), where Homer places the swineherd Eumaeus. The path takes roughly 1h-1h30 each way, partly on a track and partly on a steep marked trail down to the sea; allow 3-4 hours return with a swim.
Afternoon. After lunch in Vathy, take a rest or a slow swim at Skinos bay, then visit one of the small local wineries or olive oil producers if they are open to visitors.
Evening. Last evening on the quay, or a drink at the café on the square with a mandola, the caramelised almond sweet sold across the Ionian. In August, look for the theatre and music events of the island's summer programme.
The Arethusa path has almost no shade. In July and August only do it before 9:00, and bring at least 1.5 litres of water per person.
Only have 3 days?
With 3 days, do Vathy and Gidaki on Day 1, the full north loop on Day 2 and the Arethusa walk or Filiatro on Day 3. You lose Perachori and the slow pace that suits the island.
Got extra days?
Extra days go to Kefalonia, 30-45 minutes by ferry from Pisaetos to Sami, for the Melissani lake cave and Myrtos beach, or to Lefkada by the summer boat between Frikes and Vasiliki (about 1 hour; check current timetables). A day sailing round the island from Vathy reaches coves you cannot drive to.
Where to stay in Ithaca
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Vathy (rooms behind the quay) | Most shops, tavernas and water taxis; easy without a car. | €50-90 |
| Mid-range | Vathy waterfront | Bay views and the only real town on the island, close to Gidaki boats. | €90-170 |
| Mid-range | Kioni / Frikes | Small harbours in the north, quiet evenings, short drives to Polis and the north beaches. | €100-180 |
| Comfort | Villas above Vathy, Perachori or Kioni | Stone villas with pools and sea views; book early, as there are few. | €200-450 |
Getting around
You need wheels. A small car is about €35-55 a day in summer, a scooter €20-30; book ahead for July and August. Taxis are few, so book them. Distances from Vathy: Pisaetos 8 km, Kathara monastery 13 km, Stavros 17 km, Kioni 22 km. Ferries: Sami (Kefalonia) to Pisaetos in 30-45 minutes several times a day in summer; Patras to Ithaca via Sami in about 3.5-4 hours; and in summer Astakos on the mainland and Vasiliki (Lefkada) have links too. Timetables change every season, so check current timetables before planning. The nearest airports are Kefalonia and Aktion (Preveza).
What to eat in Ithaca
Food on Ithaca is home-style Ionian. Look for savoro (fried fish kept in vinegar, rosemary and raisins), bourdeto (fish in a red-pepper sauce, shared with Kefalonia and Corfu), fresh grilled fish by weight (often €50-75/kg; ask first), and slow-cooked goat or lamb in the north villages. The local sweet is rovani, made with rice, honey and syrup; mandoles, caramelised almonds, are sold everywhere. A taverna meal with house wine is €15-25 per person; souvlaki is about €3.50-4. Many village tavernas only open from June to September.
Best time to visit
Late May, June and September are best: highs of 24-29°C, warm sea and quiet harbours. July and August are hot (31-34°C) and busy with yachts, though never crowded by Cyclades standards. The island is green from rain in winter and spring, ideal for walking in April-May and October, but many rooms and tavernas close from November to April.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | €35 | €70 | €160 |
| Food & drink | €25 | €45 | €80 |
| Sights & tickets | €5 | €15 | €40 |
| Local transport | €15 | €25 | €50 |
| Total per person, per day | about €80 | about €155 | about €330 |
Approximate 2026 prices; transport assumes a shared scooter or rental car plus water taxis, and excludes the ferry to the island. Greece charges a per-room, per-night climate resilience fee, higher from April to October.
Before you go
Common questions
How do I get to Ithaca?
There is no airport. Most people fly to Kefalonia and take a taxi to Sami (about 30 minutes) for the short ferry to Pisaetos, or travel from Patras by ferry via Sami. In summer there are also links from Astakos on the mainland and Vasiliki on Lefkada. Schedules change each season and some boats run only from June to September, so check current timetables.
Is Ithaca really Homer's Ithaca?
Most people on the island believe so, and place names such as the Arethusa spring, the Raven's Rock and the bay of Dexa follow the Odyssey. Some scholars have argued for Lefkada or part of Kefalonia instead. The Mycenaean finds near Stavros, at the Loizos cave and on the Pilikata hill, are real, whatever one concludes.
Can I see Ithaca on a day trip from Kefalonia?
Yes, many boat tours from Fiskardo and Sami stop at Kioni, Frikes or Vathy for an hour or two. It is a taste, not a visit: you miss Anogi, the monastery and the walks. Staying at least two nights changes the experience completely.
Which are the best beaches in Ithaca?
Gidaki is the best known, a pebble beach reached by water taxi or a hill path. Filiatro and Sarakiniko near Vathy are sheltered and easy, Polis bay below Stavros is good for a sunset swim, and Skinos is calm. Most beaches are pebble, not sand, so bring water shoes.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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