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How many days in Essaouira? 3 days of ramparts, grilled fish and Atlantic wind
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
After Marrakech, Essaouira feels like a deep breath: a whitewashed medina with blue shutters, laid out on a grid in the 18th century behind sea walls, with a working fishing port and a long beach swept by the Atlantic trade winds. It is about three hours by bus from Marrakech, so do not try it as a day trip. Give it three days: one for the medina and the ramparts, one for the port and the beach, and one for the coast south to Sidi Kaouki or the argan country inland.
Short answer
Two days covers the medina, the Skala ramparts, the fish market and the beach. The third day adds Sidi Kaouki, a hammam and a slower pace, which is the point of coming.
The 3-day plan, day by day
Day 1: The medina and the Skala de la Ville
Morning. Enter the medina through Bab Sbaa or from Place Moulay Hassan, the main square by the port. Walk the main street, Avenue de l'Istiqlal and its continuation Avenue Mohammed Zerktouni, to see the grid layout planned for Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 1760s. Visit the Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum, in a restored mansion, with local crafts, jewellery and musical instruments (small entry fee; check opening days).
Afternoon. Climb onto the Skala de la Ville, the sea bastion on the northern side of the medina, with its row of bronze cannons pointing out to sea and waves breaking on the rocks below (free). Below the ramparts, the woodworkers' workshops craft boxes and furniture from thuya, a fragrant local wood; you can watch them work.
Evening. Watch the sunset from the ramparts, then dine in the medina. A tagine or a couscous with mint tea costs MAD 80-150 per person in a simple restaurant, and more in the riad restaurants.
The medina's grid makes it far easier to navigate than Marrakech's or Fes's. If you get lost, head towards the sound of the sea and follow the walls.
Day 2: The port, the souks and the beach
Morning. Go to the fishing port by 8:00-9:00, when the boats come in and fish are auctioned on the quay. The blue wooden boats are repaired and painted in the boatyard next to the harbour. Walk up the Skala du Port, the fort at the harbour entrance, for the view over the medina and the Ile de Mogador, the island offshore, a protected nature reserve for Eleonora's falcons (small entry fee).
Afternoon. Explore the souks around the spice market and the jewellers' quarter, and the old Mellah, the Jewish quarter in the northern medina, where restoration work has revived some houses and synagogues. Buy argan oil, spices and silver jewellery; bargain politely.
Evening. Walk along the long sandy beach south of the medina, popular with kitesurfers in the afternoon wind. Eat at the fish grills near the port, where you choose sardines, prawns, sea bream or squid and they are grilled for you; agree the price per kilo first (a plate for MAD 80-150).
Essaouira is windy almost every afternoon from spring to autumn. Bring a jacket, even in summer, and plan beach lounging for the morning.
Day 3: Diabat, Sidi Kaouki and the argan country
Morning. Walk or ride a horse or camel along the beach south to Diabat, about 4 km, a small village near the ruined fort known as the Borj el-Berod, half buried in sand. A popular story links the area with musicians in the 1960s and 70s; whatever the truth, it remains a quiet place to stroll.
Afternoon. Take a taxi or bus about 30 minutes south to Sidi Kaouki, a long, wild beach with a small village, popular with surfers. Lessons and board rental cost about MAD 300-500. Alternatively, drive inland on the Marrakech road to visit an argan oil cooperative run by women, where you see the nuts being cracked and ground by hand.
Evening. End with a hammam in the medina (a public one for about MAD 50-100, or a spa package for MAD 250-500), and a last dinner on a rooftop terrace overlooking the port.
Goats climbing argan trees along the Marrakech road are a famous sight, but some are placed there for tourists' photos and the owners ask for money. Stop at a real cooperative instead.
Only have 2 days?
With 2 days, do the medina and the ramparts on Day 1, and the port, souks and beach on Day 2. You lose Diabat and Sidi Kaouki.
Got extra days?
With a 4th day, spend more time in Sidi Kaouki or take a kitesurfing course, which usually lasts several days. Further south, Taghazout and Agadir are about 3 hours away by road, for more surf and an airport with more flights.
Where to stay in Essaouira
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Medina hostels and small riads | Simple rooms with rooftop terraces in the old town, close to the port. | MAD 200-500 |
| Mid-range | Medina riads | Traditional houses around a courtyard, a few minutes from the ramparts. | MAD 600-1,200 |
| Mid-range | Beachfront (Boulevard Mohammed V) | Hotels facing the beach and the bay, quieter and with parking. | MAD 700-1,400 |
| Comfort | Boutique riads and hotels outside town | Upscale riads in the medina, or resort hotels and golf near Mogador. | MAD 1,500-4,000 |
Getting around
Buses from Marrakech with Supratours and CTM take about 3 hours (roughly MAD 90-120 one way); grand taxis and private transfers are faster but cost more. Essaouira-Mogador airport is about 15 km south, with a few international flights. The medina is pedestrian and walkable in 15 minutes from end to end; porters with carts will carry your bags from the bus station or the gates to your riad for a small tip. Small blue petits taxis run in town (MAD 10-20), and grand taxis go to Diabat and Sidi Kaouki.
What to eat in Essaouira
Essaouira is a fish town. Eat grilled sardines and sea bream at the port grills, fish tagine with potatoes and peppers, and pastilla with seafood in the riad restaurants. Breakfast often comes with amlou, a spread of argan oil, almonds and honey, served with msemen or baghrir pancakes. Street snacks include grilled corn and sweet pastries from the market. Mint tea is everywhere, about MAD 10-20 a glass. Alcohol is available in some restaurants and hotels. A simple dinner costs MAD 80-150 per person; a riad dinner with wine, MAD 250-450.
Best time to visit
Essaouira is mild all year, which is its great advantage over inland Morocco. April to June and September to October are the most pleasant, with highs of 20-24°C. In summer, while Marrakech bakes above 40°C, Essaouira stays around 22-26°C but is windy and sometimes foggy; this is the best time for kitesurfing. The Gnaoua World Music Festival fills the town in June. Winter is cool and calmer, around 18°C by day.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | MAD 150 | MAD 400 | MAD 1,000 |
| Food & drink | MAD 150 | MAD 300 | MAD 600 |
| Sights & tickets | MAD 50 | MAD 150 | MAD 500 |
| Local transport | MAD 20 | MAD 60 | MAD 200 |
| Total per person, per day | about MAD 370 | about MAD 910 | about MAD 2,300 |
Approximate 2026 prices (about 11 dirhams to the euro); Moroccan hotels and riads add a small city tax per person per night.
Before you go
Common questions
Can I visit Essaouira as a day trip from Marrakech?
Many tours offer it, but it means six hours on the road for a few hours in town. You arrive when the port is quiet and leave before the sunset on the ramparts. Spend at least one night, and ideally two or three, to see the morning fish auction, the evening light and the beach.
Is Essaouira good for kitesurfing?
Yes, it is one of the best-known kitesurfing spots in Morocco, thanks to the strong trade winds that blow most afternoons, especially from April to September. The beach south of the medina has several schools and rental shops. Beginners should take lessons, as the wind can be strong and gusty; the water is cold, so a wetsuit is needed.
Was Game of Thrones filmed in Essaouira?
Yes. Scenes for the city of Astapor, in the third season, were filmed on the ramparts and in the medina. Earlier, Orson Welles filmed parts of his Othello here around 1950, and a small square near the ramparts carries his name. Many visitors come to see the Skala de la Ville, the main filming location.
Is it easy to get around the medina?
Much easier than in Marrakech or Fes. The medina was planned on a grid in the 18th century, with two main streets and gates on each side, so it is hard to get lost for long. It is also mostly flat. Cars cannot enter, so taxis drop you at the gates and porters carry your luggage.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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