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Where to stay in Astypalaia
Astypalaia is shaped like a butterfly, with two distinct sides connected by a narrow isthmus. Chora, the capital, sits on the eastern wing and is the island’s vertical hub of narrow alleys and windmills. The western side, specifically Livadi and Maltezana, offers flatter coastal landscapes. Choosing where to stay depends on whether you prefer the steep, wind-swept heights of the traditional capital or the accessible, pebbled beach fronts of the bays.
Chora
Chora is a vertical maze of whitewashed houses climbing toward the Venetian Querini Castle. It feels historic and dense, with every path leading to the iconic row of eight windmills at the town entrance. Everything is walkable here, though steep; you can reach the main square, the castle summit, and the primary bus stop in under ten minutes of hiking.
Livadi
This area sits in a lush valley sloping down to a organized pebble beach. It feels significantly more spread out and agrarian than Chora, with fruit orchards and tavernas lining the bay. It is entirely flat, making it walkable for families with strollers. You can easily stroll from your accommodation to the water or to the local bakery in five minutes.
Maltezana
Maltezana feels like a sleepy fishing outpost, centered around a protected bay with calm, shallow waters. It is perfect for those who want to wake up and immediately access the sea. The area is flat and highly walkable along the harbor front, where several family-run tavernas offer fresh daily catches just steps from the small port and the Talara baths.
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Compare car rentals in AstypalaiaOne thing to think about
Avoid staying in the far northern reaches of the island near Vathy unless you enjoy complete isolation and have a reliable rental car. The roads are rugged, public transport is non-existent here, and getting to the main hubs for dinner requires a difficult, winding drive in the dark.
Other places to stay in Greece: lastminute.com · Megabon
Once you have a bed
The things that sell out first in Astypalaia are the small-group tours and the skip-the-line tickets.
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Common questions
Do I need a rental car to explore the island?
Yes, a rental car or scooter is highly recommended. While the bus connects Chora to Livadi and Maltezana, it operates on a limited schedule and does not reach the more remote beaches or northern landscapes. Having your own transport is the only way to fully experience the island’s varied coastlines at your own pace.
Which side of the island is better for swimming?
Both sides have merits, but the bay at Maltezana is superior for calm, family-friendly swimming. The beaches on the eastern side, particularly near Chora, are often more exposed to the Meltemi winds, creating choppier conditions. Livadi offers a good balance of accessibility and protection, but Maltezana’s sheltered coves remain the island's most reliable spots for swimming.
Is it easy to get around Chora on foot?
Chora is entirely pedestrianized, but it is physically demanding. The entire village is a vertical climb of stairs and narrow, uneven stone alleys. While everything is technically within walking distance, you will be constantly navigating steep inclines. It is not suitable for those with mobility issues, and you should pack sturdy footwear regardless of your fitness level.
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