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How many days in Varanasi? 3 days of ghats, boats and Sarnath
By Tony Panopoulos · travel-agency planner in Greece · Updated
Varanasi, also called Kashi and Banaras, is one of the holiest cities in Hinduism, stretched along the west bank of the Ganges in a line of more than 80 stone ghats, steps down to the river. Life and death happen in the open here: bathing, prayers, laundry, cricket and cremations on the same stretch of riverbank. Give it three days: the city is intense, and you need time to slow down. Plan the river at sunrise, the lanes in the morning, and the Ganga Aarti at dusk.
Short answer
Two days covers a sunrise boat, the ghat walk, the evening aarti and the old-city lanes. The third day adds Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, and the silk-weaving quarters.
The 3-day plan, day by day
Day 1: Sunrise on the river and the ghat walk
Morning. Be at Assi Ghat, at the southern end, before sunrise for Subah-e-Banaras, the morning ceremony with fire offerings, music and yoga. Then take a rowing boat north along the ghats for about an hour (roughly ₹500-1,000 for a private boat, depending on season and haggling; agree the price and the route before you sit down).
Afternoon. Walk back along the ghats from Assi to Dashashwamedh, about 4 km and 1.5-2 hours, past Tulsi Ghat, Harishchandra Ghat, one of the two cremation ghats, and the palace fronts of Chet Singh, Darbhanga and Kedar Ghat, with its red-and-white striped steps.
Evening. Watch the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, around 18:30-19:00 (earlier in winter): priests in matching robes swing large brass lamps to the sound of bells and chants, for about 45 minutes. Arrive 45 minutes early for a step, or watch from a boat on the river (about ₹200-400 per person shared).
On the ghats you will be offered boats, massages, flowers and 'free' tours many times an hour. A firm, friendly 'no, thank you' and walking on works best.
Day 2: Kashi Vishwanath, the old city and Manikarnika
Morning. Visit Kashi Vishwanath, the city's most sacred temple, dedicated to Shiva, with its gold-plated spire. Since 2021 the Kashi Vishwanath Dham corridor links it to the river. Phones, cameras, bags and leather are not allowed inside; use the lockers. Queues are shortest early in the morning; go before 7:00 if you can.
Afternoon. Get lost in the galis, the narrow lanes of the old city behind the river, around Vishwanath Gali and Kachauri Gali, with shrines, sweet shops and cows at every corner. Eat kachori sabzi with jalebi for breakfast or lunch (about ₹50-100). Then walk down to Manikarnika Ghat, the main cremation ground, where pyres burn day and night.
Evening. At Manikarnika, stay at a respectful distance and do not take photographs of the cremations. Then have a lassi in a clay cup near the river (about ₹60-120) and dinner in the old city or near Godowlia.
People at Manikarnika may offer to 'guide' you and then ask for large donations 'for wood for the poor'. You do not need a guide here; politely decline.
Day 3: Sarnath and Banarasi silk
Morning. Take an auto-rickshaw or taxi about 10 km (30-45 minutes) to Sarnath, where the Buddha is said to have given his first sermon after his enlightenment. See the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of monasteries in the Deer Park area and the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar temple with modern murals.
Afternoon. Visit the Sarnath Archaeological Museum (a small fee; usually closed on Fridays), which holds the Lion Capital of Ashoka, the symbol on India's coat of arms and banknotes. Back in Varanasi, visit a silk weaving workshop to see Banarasi brocade made on handlooms; ask for a workshop, not a showroom, and expect a sales pitch.
Evening. Visit Banaras Hindu University in the south if you have time, with the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum, or take a last boat at sunset and end with a Banarasi paan, the betel-leaf digestive the city is famous for (with or without tobacco; ask for 'meetha', sweet).
For silk, prices vary hugely. Real Banarasi saris take days or weeks to weave and cost from about ₹5,000 to well over ₹50,000; a cheap 'pure silk' sari is usually not.
Only have 2 days?
With 2 days, do the sunrise boat and ghat walk on Day 1 with the evening aarti, and the temple, lanes and Manikarnika on Day 2. You lose Sarnath.
Got extra days?
A 4th day can go to Ramnagar Fort across the river (about 14 km), to the Mughal-era fort at Chunar further south, or to a second sunrise and a slow day of reading on the ghats. Varanasi also links well by train or flight to Bodh Gaya, Khajuraho, Agra and Delhi.
Where to stay in Varanasi
| Budget | Area | Why | Typical double/night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | Assi Ghat and the lanes behind it | Guesthouses and cafés, the morning ceremony on the doorstep. | ₹1,000-2,500 |
| Mid-range | Riverside guesthouses between Assi and Dashashwamedh | Rooms with Ganges views, walk to the ghats at sunrise. | ₹3,000-7,000 |
| Mid-range | Cantonment (Cantt) | Modern hotels near the railway station, away from the crowds. | ₹3,500-7,000 |
| Comfort | Heritage palace hotels on the ghats | Restored palaces with river terraces, some with private boats. | ₹12,000-35,000 |
Getting around
The ghats and old city are best on foot; many lanes are too narrow for cars. Cycle-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws cover the rest; agree a fare first, usually ₹50-200 within the city, or use app taxis such as Uber or Ola. Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport at Babatpur is about 25 km north-west, 45-75 minutes by taxi (roughly ₹800-1,200). Varanasi Junction (Cantt) is the main station, with trains to Delhi (about 8-13 hours, depending on the train), Agra, Kolkata and Gaya. Traffic near Godowlia is often blocked to vehicles in the evening; walk the last part.
What to eat in Varanasi
Varanasi is a vegetarian city around the temples, with some of India's best street food. Start the day with kachori sabzi and hot jalebi (₹50-100), try tamatar chaat (spiced tomato chaat), baati chokha and, in winter, malaiyo, a saffron milk foam made overnight in the cold. Lassi comes thick in clay cups (kulhad). Finish with Banarasi paan. A thali in a simple restaurant costs ₹150-350; a dinner in a hotel restaurant ₹800-2,000. Drink only bottled or filtered water, and eat street food where it is cooked fresh in front of you.
Best time to visit
October to March is best: dry, with highs of 20-30°C; December and January mornings are foggy and cold (around 8-10°C). Dev Deepawali, on the full moon of Kartik (usually November), lights the ghats with countless oil lamps; rooms sell out months ahead. April to June is very hot, often above 40°C, and the monsoon (July-September) can flood the lower ghats and stop boats.
What a day costs
| Budget | Mid-range | Comfort | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed (per person, sharing a double) | ₹700 | ₹2,500 | ₹10,000 |
| Food & drink | ₹500 | ₹1,200 | ₹3,000 |
| Sights & tickets | ₹300 | ₹800 | ₹2,000 |
| Local transport | ₹200 | ₹600 | ₹2,000 |
| Total per person, per day | about ₹1,700 | about ₹5,100 | about ₹17,000 |
Approximate 2026 prices in Indian rupees; boats are counted under sights. Hotels add GST to the room rate, which can be 5-18% depending on price.
Before you go
Common questions
Can tourists watch the cremations in Varanasi?
Yes, at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, from a respectful distance. Do not photograph or film the pyres or mourners, and do not go close to the fires. Families bring the dead here because cremation in Kashi is believed to bring liberation. Ignore men who offer tours and then ask for donations for wood.
Can non-Hindus enter Kashi Vishwanath Temple?
Foreign visitors are generally allowed in, but security is strict. You must leave phones, cameras, bags and leather items in lockers, and queues can last hours at festivals. Some inner rituals are reserved for Hindus. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and follow the instructions of the temple staff.
Is Varanasi safe for travellers?
Generally yes, but it is intense. The main problems are touts, overcharging, pickpockets in crowds and traffic. Agree prices before boats and rickshaws, keep valuables close at the aarti, and walk the narrow lanes in daylight if you are new. Women travelling alone should dress conservatively and expect attention.
Which ghats should I see first?
Dashashwamedh for the evening aarti, Assi for the sunrise ceremony, Manikarnika and Harishchandra for the cremations, and the long walk between them for everything else: Kedar Ghat's striped steps, Chet Singh's fort walls and Darbhanga's palace. A sunrise boat from Assi northwards shows you most of them in an hour.
How this guide was made
Compiled by TonyPlan from official tourism, transport and attraction sources and on-the-ground travel knowledge. Prices are approximate for 2026 and change with season; anything we could not confirm is marked as approximate.
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