Where to stay in Leh
Leh is the main town of Ladakh, at about 3,500 metres in the Indian Himalaya. Its old town climbs up to Leh Palace and the Namgyal Tsemo monastery, and most guesthouses are spread around the old town and the green lanes of Changspa. Because of the altitude, the first two days should be spent resting, so choose a quiet, comfortable base.
Main Bazaar and the old town
Hotels near the Main Bazaar are a short walk from cafes, travel agents, shared-taxi stands and the old town lanes below Leh Palace. It is convenient for arranging permits and trips, but busier and noisier than the outer lanes.
Changspa
Changspa runs north-west from the centre through fields and willow trees, with family-run guesthouses, garden cafes and the path up to the white Shanti Stupa. It is peaceful and green, and the bazaar is a 10 to 15 minute walk.
Karzoo and Sankar
These residential areas above the town have guesthouses and hotels with views of the Stok range. They are calm and good for acclimatising, though walking back uphill from the bazaar is tiring at this altitude.
One thing to think about
Do not book activities or high passes for your first two days: altitude sickness is common for people who fly straight into Leh. Choose a place with heating or warm bedding, as nights are cold even in summer, and check whether hot water is reliable.
Other places to stay in India: Oberoi · Trident · The Leela
Once you have a bed
The things that sell out first in Leh are the small-group tours and the skip-the-line tickets.
Common questions
How should I acclimatise in Leh?
Rest for the first 24 to 48 hours after arriving, drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol and exertion. Then take short walks to Shanti Stupa or the palace before trips to higher places like Khardung La, Nubra Valley or Pangong Tso. See a doctor if symptoms are serious.
Do I need permits in Ladakh?
Visitors need permits for areas such as Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. Rules differ for Indian and foreign nationals and can change, so check the current requirements. Travel agents and guesthouses in Leh can arrange permits, and they are needed at checkpoints.
When is the best time to visit Leh?
The main season runs from about May or June to September, when roads over the high passes are usually open and the weather is mild by day. Winter is very cold, many guesthouses close and roads are cut off, though flights still reach Leh.
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