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Where to stay in Darjeeling
Darjeeling is a hill town at about 2,000 metres in West Bengal, built along a narrow ridge with views of Kangchenjunga. Streets are steep and many lanes are footpaths, so staying close to the Chowrasta and the Mall saves a lot of climbing, while tea-estate bungalows outside town offer peace and plantation views.
Chowrasta and the Mall
The pedestrian Chowrasta square and the Mall Road are the heart of town, with old hotels, bakeries such as Glenary's, bookshops and mountain views on clear mornings. Observatory Hill and the toy-train station are a walk away. Rooms with a Kangchenjunga view are worth the extra cost.
Gandhi Road and Laden La Road
Lower down the ridge, these roads have many simple hotels near the shared-jeep stands, the market and the railway station. It is busier and less scenic, and the walk up to Chowrasta is steep, but prices are lower.
Tea estates around Darjeeling
Several working tea estates, such as Glenburn and Makaibari in the wider area, offer stays in planters' bungalows with tea tasting and walks through the gardens. They are far from the town's crowds and need a car, but the setting is memorable.
One thing to think about
Hotels described as 'near the Mall' can still be a steep climb away, which is tiring at this altitude with luggage. In the monsoon from June to September, cloud often hides the mountains and landslides can delay road travel.
Other places to stay in India: Oberoi · Trident · The Leela
Once you have a bed
The things that sell out first in Darjeeling are the small-group tours and the skip-the-line tickets.
Common questions
When can I see Kangchenjunga from Darjeeling?
The clearest views are usually from October to early December and in spring from March to April, especially early in the morning. Many visitors go to Tiger Hill before sunrise to watch the first light on Kangchenjunga. In the monsoon the peaks are usually hidden by cloud.
Is the toy train worth riding?
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, runs small steam and diesel trains on narrow-gauge track. A short joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum and back passes the Batasia Loop and is the easiest way to experience it. Book tickets in advance in high season.
How do I get to Darjeeling?
The nearest airport is Bagdogra and the main railway station is New Jalpaiguri, both near Siliguri. From there shared jeeps and taxis climb to Darjeeling in about three hours, depending on traffic and the road. The toy train also runs on parts of the route.
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