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Shkodër is the main city of northern Albania and one of the oldest in the Balkans, set where three rivers meet the shore of Lake Shkodër, the largest lake in Southern Europe, shared with Montenegro. It is a laid-back, bicycle-friendly city with a lively pedestrian street, Kolë Idromeno, lined with restored houses, cafés and gelato shops, and with a Catholic cathedral and large mosques standing a few streets apart.

Above the city, Rozafa Castle sits on a rocky hill with wide views over the lake and the rivers; its name comes from the legend of a young woman walled into its foundations. In town, the Marubi National Museum of Photography shows images from one of the oldest photography studios in the Balkans, and the Site of Witness and Memory tells the story of the communist years. Just outside the city, the eighteenth-century Mes Bridge crosses the Kir river in a long stone arch. Shkodër is also the gateway to the Albanian Alps: from here buses and minivans head to Theth and to the Komani Lake ferry towards Valbona. Try lake carp baked with onions and local cheese pies. The best time to visit is May to September.

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