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Why visit Vinales?

Viñales is a small, friendly town in Cuba's Pinar del Río province, in the far west of the island. It lies in the Viñales Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of red-earth fields, royal palms and mogotes, steep rounded limestone hills that rise straight out of the flat valley floor. Farmers here still grow tobacco in traditional ways, often ploughing the fields with oxen, and the town's colourful single-storey houses give it a slow, rural rhythm that feels very different from Havana.

The best way to explore is on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, following farm tracks through the valley. Many tobacco farms welcome visitors to see the drying barns and watch cigars being rolled by hand. Cueva del Indio is a cave where a short boat ride follows an underground river, and the huge Mural de la Prehistoria is painted on a cliff face nearby. Viewpoints around the valley are lovely at sunset, and the mogotes also attract rock climbers. Most visitors stay in casas particulares, family homes that rent rooms and often serve home-cooked meals. Viñales is a few hours' drive west of Havana by bus, shared taxi or organised tour. The best time to visit is November to April, during the dry season.

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